UPDATED: 22 April 2014

Decided to make up Shockbox Inserts for all my current MVS games because I couldn’t find a decent collection that remained constant.













DOWNLOAD: Last Blade

DOWNLOAD: Last Blade 2

DOWNLOAD: Metal Slug X

DOWNLOAD: Metal Slug 4

DOWNLOAD: Puzzle Bobble



Last Updated 18 April 2014

Game Name


Game Picture

PCB Image

WORLD Region

JAPAN Region
JAPAN Region
JAPAN Region
World Region
JP Region
USA Region
USA Region
JAPAN Region
USA Region
USA Region
USA Region
USA Region
USA Region
World Region
USA Region
JP Region
USA Region
USA Region
(Full Kit)
Export Region
International Region
World Region
USA Region
JAPAN Region
ASIA Region
ASIA Region
World Region


System Name


PCB Image

Capcom CPSII ‘A’ Board ( * 2) ASIA Region
Capcom CPSIII Setup Full Third Strike Capable DIMM’s

Updated 9 April 2014

(Not really interested in Kits or Artwork. Must be original USA/JAP, no bootlegs or Korea versions please);

2020 Baseball [NeoGeo MVS]
Art of Fighting [NeoGeo MVS]
Art of Fighting 2 [NeoGeo MVS]
Art of Fighting 3 [NeoGeo MVS]
Blue’s Journey/Raguy [NeoGeo MVS]
Crossed Swords [NeoGeo MVS]
Fatal Fury Special [NeoGeo MVS]
Garou: Mark of the Wolves [NeoGeo MVS]
Ghouls N’ Ghosts [CPS1]
Hyper Street Fighter II: The Anniversary Edition [CPS2]
King of Dragons [CPS1]
King of Fighters ’94 [NeoGeo MVS]
King of Fighters ’95 [NeoGeo MVS]
King of Fighters ’96 [NeoGeo MVS]
King of Fighters ’97 [NeoGeo MVS]
King of Fighters ’99 [NeoGeo MVS]
King of Fighters 2001 [NeoGeo MVS]
King of Fighters 2003 [NeoGeo MVS]
King of the Monsters [NeoGeo MVS]
King of the Monsters 2 [NeoGeo MVS]
Last Blade [NeoGeo MVS]
Last Blade 2 [NeoGeo MVS]
Last Resort [NeoGeo MVS]
Magic Sword [CPS1]
Marvel Vs Capcom [CPS2]
Marvel Super Heroes [CPS2]
Marvel Super Heroes Vs Street Fighter [CPS2]
Matrimelee [NeoGeo MVS]
Mega Twins / Chiki Chiki Boys [CPS1]
Mutation Nation [NeoGeo MVS]
Neo Turf Masters / Big Tournament Golf [NeoGeo MVS]
Ninja Combat [NeoGeo MVS]
Ninja Master’s [NeoGeo MVS]
Rage of the Dragons [NeoGeo MVS]
Real Bout Fatal Fury [NeoGeo MVS]
Real Bout Fatal Fury Special [NeoGeo MVS]
Real Bout Fatal Fury 2 [NeoGeo MVS]
Samurai Shodown [NeoGeo MVS]
Samurai Shodown II [NeoGeo MVS]
Samurai Shodown III [NeoGeo MVS]
Samurai Shodown IV [NeoGeo MVS]
Samurai Shodown V Special [NeoGeo MVS]
Sengoku [NeoGeo MVS]
Sengoku 2 [NeoGeo MVS]
Sengoku 3 [NeoGeo MVS]
Shock Troopers [NeoGeo MVS]
Shock Troopers 2nd Squad [NeoGeo MVS]
Street Fighter II: Hyper Fighting [CPS1]
Street Fighter Zero [CPS2 - ASIA GREY]
Street Hoop / Dunk Dream [NeoGeo MVS]
Super Dodgeball [NeoGeo MVS]
Super Spy [NeoGeo MVS]
Super Street Fighter II Turbo/X [CPS2]
Top Hunter [NeoGeo MVS]
Vampire Savior 2: The Lord of Vampire [CPS2]
Waku Waku 7 [NeoGeo MVS]
WindJammers [NeoGeo MVS]
World Heroes [NeoGeo MVS]
World Heroes 2 [NeoGeo MVS]
World Heroes 2 Jet [NeoGeo MVS]
World Heroes Perfect [NeoGeo MVS]
X-Men Vs Street Fighter [CPS2]

Playstation Vita Manager PSVeeter v0.8 Released!


- Finally fixed reading the Title and Game ID’s
- Separated the Savegames, as both PSX & PSP Savegames share Categories.
- Should be much faster!
- Still have to trim a heap of old code for next release (Not needed anymore)


NOTE: Make sure you have Microsft .NET 4.0 installed!!

Download ( EXE ) – ( SOURCE )

Part 11 – More Surprises!

After having replaced the control panel, I decided the next most important thing on the list was to get the sound working through the JAMMA edge connector.

I have ordered a replacement 001 Loom and a replacement Sound AMP;

001 Loom
Sega JVS to JAMMA 001 Loom – Sega Part No # 600-7143-001


Sega Model 3 Sound AMP – Sega Part No # 838-12796

So those parts should be here sometime next week, and I thought that would solve my audio problems but it seems there are more surprises waiting for me. As I was inspecting the wiring inside the cabinet I noticed this;

CN10Snipped Wires

I traced those using a Blast City wiring schematic and it seems they should go to the Left + Right Audio connector on the power supply (To be passed to the sound AMP). To my surprise I found the following on the Power supply connector;

CN1Hmm Strange! Where do they go to…

So I followed the wires and guess what I found?

RCAsDirectly to the RCA Audio Jacks, so thats how they’ve hacked it, and why the Sound AMP blew!

So they have bypassed the harness and internal wiring all together and wired the RCA connectors directly to the PSU Sound AMP Pass through. So with this setup, when using a board that has RCA jacks it will feed the sound from BOTH the JAMMA edge and RCA jacks, hence the blown sound AMP.

So here’s how it is wired at the moment;

MINEMy Hacked wiring at the moment

And now here’s how it should look, when I’ve reattached the hacked wires and installed the official 001 Loom;

NOTMINEHow it should be wired

As you can see its pretty different. The best explanation I can think of is that who ever converted this cabinet from Model 3 (JVS) to JAMMA, used what parts they had lying around and hacked it to work but in the process blew the sound amp so they then hacked it further and made the RCA plugs come directly from the PSU connector.

That’s about it for now, next post should be when I receive both the Sound AMP + 001 Loom, that should be in about a week’s time fingers crossed!

Continued in Part 12!

Part 10 – Everything’s coming up Millhouse!

So I had chosen to replace the … Control Panel! This was probably going to be the most expensive of the lot but because I could still get sound through the RCA plugs with certain boards I chose this as the current control panel was pretty terrible;

PANEL_FIXUPNote: I had printed out a temporary Black and White Instruction Space Card I made.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAControl Panel that came with Cabinet from Supplier

As you can see theres a fair bit of Damage but the more important reason I wanted a replacement was not apparent from the pictures. The Panel was very flexible, it felt like it was made out of thick plastic so when you were playing it flexed and bowed. It just felt pretty bad when playing so I needed a replacement.

I really wanted an Official Sega replacement, but those are not produced anymore so the next best thing was a SANWA Licensed Sega Blast City Arcade control Panel. So there was a few places that stocked them but I had had a good experience with AkihabaraShop before so I decided to order from them.

The next decision was whether I ordered a complete panel with buttons, joysticks & wiring installed or the Panel, buttons and joysticks seperately and reuse the wiring I have at the moment. After tallying up the prices there was quite a big difference;

Ordering Seperately;
12  x     NB-4-15                         120¥
 1  x     JLF-TP-8Y ( Color:Green )     2,195¥
 2  x     OBSF-24 ( Color:Yellow )        358¥
 12 x     FN-4                            120¥
 6  x     OBSF-30 ( Color:Green )       1,134¥
 6  x     OBSF-30 ( Color:Pink )        1,134¥
 1  x     OOM-8-6BSR-H-Empty-Panel      8,290¥
 1  x     JLF-TP-8Y ( Color:Pink )      2,195¥
AIR MAIL:                               3,560¥
 Sub-Total:                            15,546¥
 Total:                                19,106¥

Figure A. Ordering Parts Seperately

So that came to around $210 AUD at the time which was pretty damn good compared with the prebuild panel;

1  x    OOM-8-6BSR-H                 20,900¥
AIR MAIL:                            3,560¥
Total:                               24,460¥

Figure B. Ordering Completed Panel

Which came to $270 AUD, so I could save $60 AUD just by reusing the wiring I had already fixed up myself and installing the buttons and joysticks myself! So I ordered the the Parts seperately and waited.

About a week and a half later, I got a knock on the door. To my excitement I took hold of and opened this beauty;

NEW_BLASTCITY_PANELIsn’t it GLORIOUS?! (After I put the buttons and sticks in)

Such a nice panel, super shiny Stainless Steel on the back, really solid panel. I wasted no time putting the buttons and joysticks in and then I removed the previous panel and wired this badboy up!

BLASTCITY_WITH_NEW_PANELLooking more and more Restored! :D

Words really can’t describe how much better this panel plays than the previous. Rock Solid, more accurate, … Just all round near perfect!

So with that done, I check one thing off a shortening list;

  • Replace the 001 JAMMA Loom
  • Replace the Sound AMP
  • Get Artwork for the Marquee Area
  • Get Artwork for the Control strip Area
  • Replace the Control Panel and Controls
  • Fit replacement Door/Panel locks
  • Touch up chips and scratches in Cabinet

So that’s the current status of the cabinet. I will be getting to the other remaining items when I get the money and time to. I will probably order the replacement JAMMA Loom and Sound AMP next but depending on circumstances it could be any one of them (I may leave the touchup till last).

Comparison: Mine Vs Original Factory (Getting close!)

Rollover the above image (Might take a second to load) to see what I hope to have it look like by the end. (Excuse my poor photo editing skills) ;)

Continued in Part 11!

Part 9 – Where’s the Sound?

After a few repairs and replacements, the Blast City was working fine. I ended up returning the Hyper Street Fighter II: Anniversary Edition CPSII A+B Board to the Arcade supplier because it was a conversion and quite a dodgy one at that (Plus I paid a pretty penny for it :( ). I had ended up obtaining a Double Dragon 1 Original JAMMA PCB in really good condition!! Double_Dragon_PCBOriginal Double Dragon PCB – JAMMA [1987]

I plugged in the board and it worked fine except the sound was extremely low and there was a loud buzzing. I tried adjusting the sound on the Board and in the Cabinet but nothing changed. I went to ArcadeOtaku forums for help as they’re the no.1 place for Candy Cabinets (AFAIK). I discussed my problem and they were really helpful but the winner was from a user named ‘oxtsu‘ who noticed that my JAMMA loom looked modifed/custom; I then noted that I when I first got the Cabinet I could plug in the JAMMA connector and get sound through the JAMMA Edge OR RCA plugs without changing anything. **BINGO** He then posted;

If not (both connected to the terminal board simultaneously), and you used CPS II or III boards with stereo plugs it will blow the mono (JAMMA) section, or some chip that processes it, of the amplifier inside the PSU case. It happened to me once when I added stereo connectors to the standard JAMMA harness, without the intermediary 6p connector. :cry: - Oxtsu

So that meant someone had modified the JAMMA Loom and removed the ‘Selector’ plug’s (JAMMA Edge & RCA) and joined them together (A BIG NO NO!). So great, another thing buggered on my Cabinet! So with further help I found out I needed to get a replacement Sound AMP and a proper Sega 001 Loom;

SEGALOOMSega 001 Loom – Sega Part No# 600-7143-00AMPSega Sound Amp – Sega Part No# 838-12796

So there was 2 more things to replace, sigh. I was looking at the cabinet and there were a few things to do to it before I’d be mostly happy it was restored.

  • Replace the 001 JAMMA Loom
  • Replace the Sound AMP
  • Get Artwork for the Marquee Area
  • Get Artwork for the Control strip Area
  • Replace the Control Panel and Controls
  • Fit replacement Door/Panel locks
  • Touch up chips and scratches in Cabinet

I had the artwork for the Marquee & Control Strip areas which I imported into GIMP and cleaned up (replacing elements that needed it);

INSTRUCTION_SPACESega Blast City Instruction Space Artwork

MARQUEESega Blast City Marquee Artwork

Click the links to get both FullSize Images @ 300DPI! (Print these at 100% and they will fit perfectly).

So I was trying to choose which of these items to replace first, it was a big decision but I ended up choosing the most immediate when playing the cabinet …

Continued in Part 10!

Part 8 – So far, so … FUCK!

So there I was, nearly a month had gone by and my Blast was running like a Champ. Many great matches had been had with my room mate Yu.

One Friday afternoon, I got ready for a session. Got my beer, ashtray and smoke, turned on the power, heard a pop and then this;


Fan-Fuckin-Tastic! I think I can smell a burnt capacitor, so I quickly turn the machine off. Its past 5pm so the Arcade Supplier won’t answer the phone even if they’re there. I decide not to investigate and instead wait until Monday morning to call.

Monday morning arrives and I make sure I call right on opening to get in first, I explain whats going on and get the same routine as last time. So I bring in the monitor and leave. Wait for a call, never comes (again), so I go in and find they’ve already fixed it. Wow, so I pick it up and take it out to the car and they hit me with a $140 bill. I tell them I didn’t bring my wallet as they’d only ‘repaired’ the monitor less than a month ago. They then go on to explain that they guarentee’d the original purchase not when they messed around and changed the tube.

So I have to leave my Monitor there, go home and get my wallet then drive back and pay the $140 (which I couldn’t really afford) and get back my monitor. When I get home I refit the monitor and it’s working again, seemingly, but for how long?

From this point on I’m done dealing with this supplier, the muck around and just general lack of organization has lost them a customer. Which is a shame because I would have liked to buy a few items from them, but I suppose eBay is equally or more reliable :)

Next up, I have another little surprise left over from the suppler :(

Continued in Part 9!

Part 7 – OOOH BURN!

So now everything was hunky door-y and I could play on a clean, setup machine properly I noticed that the screen did have a fair amount of Burn-In. It was glaringly obvious when the screen would be filled white you could see multiple game titles burnt in (Virtua Tennis 3, Striker 1945).

This really got me going again, so I rung the Arcade supplier and told him that our deal included a burn-free monitor. He grudgingly accepted and told me to bring the monitor in and they’d replace the tube. I took it in that day and like my previous experience they said they’d call me to pick it up… surprise, surprise, they didn’t.

So a week later and more non-returned calls, I finally just went in and they hadn’t even looked at it >:(. So I went and saw the boss and he said their monitor guy hadn’t been in and he would personally ring me when it was done.

So two days later he did indeed ring me to pick it up, so I went in and they showed me it. I asked them to show me test patterns and it did indeed look good. So I took it home and reinstalled it into my Blast City and all was good again :D



Continued in Part 8!

Part 6 – DIRTY GIRL!

So as I mentioned in Part 5, the next task was giving the Cab a good bath & scrub. Here’s what I had to begin with;



That shit is gross! The actual inside of the cab was surprisingly clean, it just needed a vacuuming and a wipe with a static free rag. The control panel and outside of the cabinet was another story. I detached the control panel from the front of the cabinet and removed all the electrical components and soaked it in a tub of soapy disinfectant. I then proceeded to scrub it with an old toothbrush then went over it with magic eraser, lightly rinsed it then finally dried it. I then reassembled the components and bolted it back to the front of the cabinet;

004Much … (Note: I hadn’t yet reconnected the Kick Plug)

newkickharness… much … (Note: Kick wiring installed properly)

005 … Better!!

That’s more like it! There is still some places that are so stained you’d probably need to sand out a few millimeters.

Finally, I removed the Marquee and cleaned it out as it was quite dirty. And That was enough cleaning, I needed some gametime! :D

img0744yn GAME ON!!

Now that it’s all cleaned and working it’ll be smooth sailing now, right? … RIGHT?!

Continued in Part 7!